Red blood python (Python brongersmai)

Short answers

Red blood python: How big does the enclosure need to be?

From 200×100×150 cm (minimum size per the 1997 expert report, up to 2.5 m); more for large females.

Red blood python: What temperature does it need?

Daytime 28–31 °C, basking spot 32–33 °C (local warm zone, no pronounced basking spot needed – ground-dweller), at night 24–26 °C.

Red blood python: Does it need UVB lighting?

UVB: UVB not essential (crepuscular/nocturnal); low-dose UVB optional.

Red blood python: How long do they live?

Life expectancy: 20–25 years.

Red blood python: Is it suitable for beginners?

Rather not – it is considered an intermediate species (difficulty: Intermediate).

Climate

Daytime temperature

28–31 °C

Night temperature

24–26 °C

Basking spot

32–33 °C (local warm zone, no pronounced basking spot needed – ground-dweller)

Humidity

60–80 %

UVB

UVB not essential (crepuscular/nocturnal); low-dose UVB optional

Enclosure

Minimum size

from 200×100×150 cm (minimum size per the 1997 expert report, up to 2.5 m); more for large females

Substrate

Moisture-retaining: pine bark, cypress mulch or terrarium humus with sphagnum zones, slightly damp; a large water basin

Feeding

Food

Frozen food – rats or mice of a suitable size

Feeding interval

adults every 2–3 weeks (avoid excess weight), juveniles every 7–10 days

Key facts

Adult size

120–180 cm, very stocky and heavy-bodied; females larger, very large animals up to ~2.4 m

Life expectancy

20–25 years

Origin

Southwest Thailand, the Malay Peninsula and eastern Sumatra (not Borneo — that is Python breitensteini)

Protection status

CITES Appendix II / EU Regulation Annex B (all Pythonidae); proof of origin required, and registration where applicable

Brumation

No real winter rest; a slight drop in temperature or lighting only to stimulate breeding

Cohabitation

Keep them singly – territorial, with a risk of stress and bites; put them together only briefly for supervised breeding

Notes

Taxonomy note: 'Borneo' does not apply to P. brongersmai (= Malayan/red blood python); the true Borneo short-tailed form is P. breitensteini. Care is nearly identical across all short-tailed/blood pythons. Common mistakes: too dry (shedding problems) or waterlogged (respiratory infections), overfeeding/obesity. Juveniles can be somewhat bitey, calming down over time. Do not confuse it with the Borneo short-tailed python (Python breitensteini): until 2000, both were classed together with Python curtus as subspecies of a single species, which is why trade names are still mixed up today.

Do you keep this species?

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Related species

• Angolan python (Python anchietae) – Intermediate
• Sumatran short-tailed python (Python curtus) – Intermediate
• Borneo short-tailed python (Python breitensteini) – Intermediate
• Burmese python (Python bivittatus) – Expert
• Indian python (Python molurus) – Expert
• Ball python (Python regius) – Beginner to intermediate
• African rock python (Python sebae) – Expert
• Southern African rock python (Python natalensis) – Expert

All species in the care wiki →

What you need to start

To keep Red blood python (Python brongersmai) you typically need: a suitable enclosure (from 200×100×150 cm (minimum size per the 1997 expert report, up to 2.5 m); more for large females), substrate (Moisture-retaining: pine bark, cypress mulch or terrarium humus with sphagnum zones, slightly damp; a large water basin), a heat source with a thermostat, UVB lighting, thermometer and hygrometer, a water dish and hides. You will find equipment in the Reptoria marketplace.